Audio, speaker and headphone repair

On portable units it's usually the battery or the charging port (cracked, not making contact), or the power button, the power board, or a fuse. On mains-powered speakers and amplifiers it's the cord, a fuse, or the power supply on the board. It looks fine on the outside but won't respond. Tell us the model and whether it reacts at all (a light, a click).

Most often the speaker driver itself is to blame — a worn or torn surround/cone, or it's been pushed too hard at high volume. If the crackle is there on every source and at any volume, the cause may be in the amplifier (bulging capacitors, the output stage). The price depends on whether it's the driver or the amp board — those are different jobs. Tell us at what volume it happens and whether it's on all sources.

In a stereo system that's usually a break in a wire or connector, an amplifier channel, or the driver itself in the silent speaker. Sometimes it's a loose socket (AUX/RCA/terminal). Tell us whether the "silence" moves to the other side when you swap the cable or the speakers around — that narrows it down a lot.

Yes. The causes: a tired amplifier (ageing, capacitors), a worn driver, oxidised contacts, or a worn volume control. Sometimes a cleaning and a couple of parts are enough; sometimes the amp board needs repair — hence the price difference. Tell us whether the volume dropped gradually or suddenly.

A constant hum or buzz is often the power-supply capacitors, or grounding and connector issues. A crackle when you turn the volume knob is a worn potentiometer (cleaned or replaced). Hiss and interference usually come from poor contacts and cables. Tell us whether the noise depends on the volume level and on the source.

We check the Bluetooth module and board, the antenna and the contacts, and less often the firmware. If you get sound over a cable (AUX) but not over Bluetooth, the problem is in the wireless side. A separate, common job is adding Bluetooth to an older speaker, amplifier or music centre that never had it — we do that too. Send us the model.

The main thing — switch it off and don't charge it, and let it dry, so it doesn't short out. Then we clean the board, repair the traces, replace the affected components and, if needed, the driver. Whether it can be saved and what it'll cost depends on the extent of the damage, which we see on the bench. The sooner you bring it in, the better the odds.

A very common cause is the charging port (loose, broken off) or a worn battery (lasts a couple of minutes). Less often it's the charge controller on the board. Replacing the port and replacing the battery are different jobs price-wise; send us the model and tell us how it behaves on the charger (does the light come on, does it get hot).

Yes. If the voice coil is open or shorted, the driver is replaced with an equivalent matched by size and specs (power, impedance). The signs — no sound, a muffled "boom", heavy distortion, sometimes a burning smell. We'll find the right replacement for your model — send us a photo of the driver and its markings.

On the type of fault, not just the brand. Cleaning contacts or replacing a connector is one thing; replacing a driver is another; repairing the amplifier board is a third — different work, different parts. That's why we give the exact figure once you describe the symptom and the model. Tell us what's going on with the sound and we'll give you an estimate.

Yes. We repair portable and stationary speakers from Marshall, JBL, Bose, Sony, Harman Kardon, Anker and others. Battery, USB-C connector, driver and board replacement.

2 months on all labor and installed parts.

Yes. Our repair pricing is based on the actual work and parts cost, not on the customer. We agree the exact price with you in writing before we start any work — and you decide whether to proceed. No surprises in the final bill.