Dyson Repair in Tbilisi

That's the overheat protection kicking in. The most common cause is simple - a clogged filter screen at the base: airflow drops, the dryer overheats and cuts out. If the filter is clean, it's usually a faulty temperature sensor (thermistor), the heating element, or the control board misreading the temperature. We can only confirm it on the bench - send us your model and describe exactly how the light blinks.

Usually it's the heating element or the temperature sensor, and less often the control board. Sometimes the dryer "thinks" it's overheating and cuts the heat because the filter is dirty. The price depends on what actually failed: a clean and a sensor swap is one thing; replacing the heater assembly or repairing the board is another. Send us the model and we'll point you in the right direction.

A common cause is a break in the cable (where it bends constantly, near the body or the plug), along with the button, the fuse, or the power board. The dryer looks perfectly fine, but no power gets through. It's usually an inexpensive fix if it's the cord, and pricier if it's the board. Tell us whether it reacts at all - a spark, a click, any light.

Yes. Most often it's the motor bearing, debris or hair pulled inside, or a damaged impeller - the balance is thrown off, which is what causes the hum and the vibration. Sometimes a cleaning is enough, but more often the motor needs replacing. If there's a burning smell along with the noise, switch it off right away and don't use it until it's been checked.

The Airwrap runs on airflow (the Coanda effect) - if the airflow drops, the attachments stop "grabbing" the hair. The usual culprits: a clogged filter, a worn or dirty motor, or a damaged impeller. Cleaning often helps, but if the motor is worn out it has to be replaced, which is a different price bracket. Send us the model and tell us what changed.

If it won't turn on and there's no flashing light, we check the cable, the button and the board. If the attachments won't lock on or keep slipping off, it's the mounting mechanism (the release buttons, the collar). Sometimes the socket part of the body melts or warps from overheating. These are different jobs in difficulty and price. Tell us whether anything flashes, and at what point it stops responding.

The main thing - don't switch it on, and let it dry, so it doesn't short out. In most cases these can be saved: we clean the board, repair the damaged traces and replace the burnt-out components. Whether it can be fixed - and what it'll cost - depends on the extent of the damage. The sooner you bring it in after it gets wet, the better the odds.

The Corrale is cordless, so a common cause is a worn battery (drains fast, won't hold a charge), or the heating element or board if it won't heat at all. If the plates themselves stop working, we look at the ribbon cable and the hinge - they take the brunt of drops. A battery replacement and a board repair are different jobs price-wise; tell us how it's behaving.

Yes. We replace batteries in Dyson devices, matched by capacity and type - in the Corrale straightener and the Dyson Zone headphones. The price depends on the model and on the battery itself. (The Supersonic dryer and the Airwrap styler run on mains power - there's no battery in them; with those, the issue is usually the cable or the board.) Send us the model and we'll quote the cost and turnaround.

On the type of fault, not just the model. Cleaning and swapping a consumable (the filter) is one thing; replacing a battery is another; and soldering and rebuilding a board, or replacing a motor, is something else entirely - different work, different parts, different price. That's why we give the exact figure once you describe the symptom and the model. Drop us a message and we'll give you an estimate.

Unplug it and stop using it right away - it could be the start of a breakdown or a short circuit, and switching it on again will only make the damage worse. The cause can be dust on the heater, a burnt-out component on the board, or a motor problem. We track down the faulty part and replace it, and the device often makes a full recovery. Don't put it off - it's cheaper and safer that way.

It depends on the fault and on parts availability: simple cases (a cleaning, a cable, a filter) are usually quick, while a board repair or waiting on a part takes longer - from about three days and up. We give a 2-month warranty on all work and installed parts.

In most cases a repair is the better deal: replacing a battery, motor or heater, or repairing the board, costs noticeably less than a new device - especially for the Supersonic, Airwrap and Corrale. There are cases where the damage is too severe - and then we'll tell you honestly that a repair isn't worth it. Send us the model and the symptom, and we'll let you know.

Yes. We can convert them to 220V - see 110V → 220V for details.

Yes. The Dyson repair price is based on the actual work and parts cost, not on the customer. We agree the exact price with you in writing before we start any work - and you decide whether to proceed. No surprises in the final bill.

A replica is not a Dyson. Dyson does not manufacture these devices and has no connection to them. Replicas are assembled at no-name factories with no quality control, no safety certification, and no compliance with the standards required for appliances officially imported into the EU and the US. Inside such a device is an unpredictable mix of components of unknown origin.

It is important to understand: a replica's low purchase price does not mean a low repair price. Disassembling and repairing a replica takes just as much of a technician's time and work as an original - and often more, due to non-standard boards and parts for which there are no schematics and no spare parts. That is why repairing a replica costs the same as repairing a genuine Dyson, and quite often more. What you paid for the device has no effect on the cost of the repair.

As a guide, most repairs run from 150 to 500 GEL. The lower end covers simpler cases: replacing a thermal sensor, fixing a cable. The upper end is for major work: motor or battery replacement, board restoration after water damage or a fall.

The final amount depends on the model and the specific fault: send a photo and describe the symptom - we'll quote the price before your visit. Everything is agreed in advance, you bring the device already knowing the amount, and there are no surprises in the final bill. Repair warranty - 2 months.

To keep your hair dryer out of the repair shop for as long as possible:

1. Clean the dryer after every use - remove the outer filter and brush the inner filter clean.
2. Wash the outer filter with warm water about once every 3 months. If dust is visible - apply a drop of dish soap, scrub with a toothbrush and rinse.
3. Don't spray hairspray or other aerosols near a running dryer - the chemicals get inside and damage the boards and contacts.
4. Don't switch the dryer off right after use - let it run on cold air for 30-40 seconds (at any speed). This significantly extends its lifespan.
5. Don't store the dryer with an attachment on.
6. Don't wrap the cord around the dryer.
7. Don't use it without the outer filter.
8. Don't put a running dryer on a pillow, blanket or towel. A soft surface blocks the air intake and overheats the dryer in seconds.
9. Don't store or use the dryer in the bathroom. Moisture and condensation settle on the board and corrode the contacts even when the dryer is off. After a shower the bathroom is full of steam - no place for a dryer there.
10. If you notice whistling, vibration or a burning smell - switch the dryer off and stop using it. The earlier you bring the dryer in, the simpler and cheaper the repair - it may end with just a sensor replacement. Push it to the limit - and it ends with a burnt motor or board, which costs far more to replace.
11. Don't store the cordless Corrale fully discharged for long periods and don't leave it in the heat (in a car or on a windowsill in summer): the battery degrades from deep discharge and overheating.

Take care of your device - and it will serve you for a long time!

We don't offer “internal cleaning” as a separate service - and that's a deliberate position. Dust by itself doesn't break a hair dryer. If enough dirt has built up inside for the dryer to overheat, shut down or lose airflow, it has been running under strain for a long time - and the overheating has already affected the components: thermal sensors, the heating element, the board. Cleaning at that point removes the symptom, not the consequences - the dryer “comes back to life” for a few weeks and then returns to a workshop, this time with a failed motor or board. We regularly receive devices after exactly this kind of “just a cleaning”.

So our approach is different: cleaning is one of the mandatory stages of a repair, not a standalone “cure”. For price guidance, see the pricing question above. And the free, genuinely useful cleaning does exist: wash the filter regularly yourself (see the care tips above) - and dirt simply won't reach the vital parts.